THE VERSATILE GOLDEN RETRIEVER

Part 4

THE STAND

The stand for exam is required in both obedience and conformation.  In novice obedience the dog’s head, body and hind quarters are touched by a judge while the handler stands six feet in front of the dog.   If the dog moves prior to, during or following the exam, points are lost.  (If a dog moves significantly out of position or shows shyness or resentment, a substantial deduction, even to the point of a non-qualifying score, can be made.)  The examination done in the breed ring is more thorough and includes inspection of the bite and teeth.  (And, male dogs need to learn early on to accept someone touching their testicles.) The conformation handler may assist the dog by holding the collar or neck.  As in obedience, the dog must not show undue shyness or resentment.   Ideally the dog will keep his feet planted on the floor during this inspection, presenting the picture of a well-trained dog deserving a judge’s attention. 

Teaching the stand during the pup’s early months helps him understand that there is nothing to fear.  In addition to providing a skill necessary for the ring, a solid stand is helpful for grooming (and table manners), wiping muddy feet, and visiting the vet.  This early training also helps promote understanding on the part of the dog that he is to remain standing in one position when placed in the stand. 

The hard stack vs. the obedience stand were taught separately with my first two dogs.  However, I noticed that both assumed a very “serious” expression when hard stacked.  I could feel a tenseness in their bodies as I positioned them.  Also, my older boy is a sensitive soul and would post if the collar was extended upward during positioning.  Granted, the hesitation and lack of confidence I felt in my dogs may well have been due to my inexperience with training for the breed ring, but the fact remains that I wanted to encourage more self-assurance in my dog as he was placed in hard stack.  So, I decided to incorporate all the necessary elements into one exercise.  This initial training for the stand began at eight weeks of age.

Just as I am a “kitchen” trainer, I am a bit unorthodox in some of my early training methods.  Most obedience trainers encourage you to place the dog on your left side when teaching many elements, including the stand.  The dog will also be on your left side as you hard stack him for the breed ring.  But, when working with a young puppy, I often sit on the floor and don’t worry about his body position in relation to mine.

I have already introduced the pup to the concept of using treats as motivation.  He has learned that a morsel of food is quite tasty and worthy of his attention.  He will “snuffle” a treat held at his nose, both sniffing at and nibbling on that treat.  While the pup is sitting, I hold a treat in my right hand and place it directly in front of his nose so he can snuffle it.  The treat is moved slightly forward (in a slow motion) from the pup’s nose as I simultaneously brush my left hand along the underside of the dog to encourage him to stand.  As the puppy begins to stand, the verbal command, “Stand”, is issued.  (Do not reach over the pup to brush a hand along his side.  Reaching over the top of the puppy may well encourage him to sit.  You need to slide your left hand along the side of the pup that is closest to your body. )

Since I hope to do obedience with the pup, care is taken to not move that treat forward more than a very short distance.  I want the pup to learn to do a “pop stand”, keeping his front feet

planted on the floor as he assumes the stand position by “kicking back” with his rear legs.  Positioning of the treat is very important.  If the treat moves forward too much, the pup will move forward with his front feet in an effort to follow that goodie.  After a few successful attempts, the treat is not moved forward at all.  The pup understands what is expected and will assume the stand position by kicking back his rear legs as the left hand is brushed along his underside. 

Once the pup demonstrates this understanding and stands readily as my left hand brushes his underside, I then begin to place the treat between my index and middle fingers, holding my hand flat, palm facing towards the pup’s face.  In this way, I introduce the Stand Hand Signal.   Initially I praise and reward (praise always precedes the reward) as soon as the pup stands. However, very quickly I have the pup continue to snuffle the treat and as he continues to hold the Stand position.  In this manner, the beginning building block of a stay is established without a verbal command.  Timing is important, as is being alert to the body language of the puppy.

At first you will continue to hold the treat and have the puppy maintain the Stand position for one second, then two seconds, then five seconds, etc.  The time the Stand is held must be increased gradually.  You want to praise and reward the desired behavior.  (Your praise for a job done correctly will encourage the pup to repeat the behavior and allows you to mold and solidify that behavior.)

  Should the pup move out of position, calmly brush his underside again with your left hand and repeat your verbal “Stand”.  If the pup has been repositioned, have him hold the Stand position for only a second or two.  The pup is telling you that he does not clearly understand that he is to remain in position.  My goal here is to build understanding that the pup should remain in position until I tell him otherwise, even though I have not issued a Stay command.  (This is a concept I learned in Field training.  In traditional obedience I was taught to issue a Stay command if I wanted my dog to remain in position.  In field work, I was encouraged to teach my dog that Sit means to Sit and remain in position until I tell you otherwise.) If the pup moves out of position, you most likely have asked him to hold that position for a longer time period than he is ready to for.  Shorten the time the pup is asked to hold the position so you can reward his success and thus solidify the desired behavior.

Once the pup can hold the stand position (still snuffling the treat held at his nose) for 30 seconds, I then begin to incorporate the hard stack into the equation.  I position one front leg with my left hand as the pup continues to snuffle that treat.  If I place one front leg and the pup holds it in position, I praise and reward.  (Since I am adding a new skill to the equation, the time I ask the pup to hold this position is reduced.)  Next, I add placement of the second front leg.   Again, I praise and reward the pup holding both front feet in position.  Gradually, I add placement of the rear feet in the same manner.  When the pup allows me to place him completely in a stacked position we once again practice until he can hold the stacked position for 30 seconds.

Practice and repetition patterns the desired behavior.  Somewhere along this journey, you will find that your puppy demonstrates some understanding of what is expected.  He will stand on his own without the need of your hand sliding along his underside.  However, puppies have a short attention span.  You need to stay alert and immediately slide your left hand along his underside if he does not immediately and readily assume the stand position on his own.

Adding the Stay command is dependent on each puppy and his readiness.  However, issuing the verbal Stay was not fearful to my pup, because a solid foundation had already been established by teaching him to hold the position with the aid of the treat held at his nose.  Once he could hold the obedience stand and the stacked position for 30 seconds while snuffling the treat, I added the “Stay” command.  Again, the process of teaching “Stay” was a gradual one.

A verbal “Stay” is introduced while the pup is snuffling at the treat.  This helps teach him the meaning of the word “Stay”.  Even though the pup knows to remain in position with the treat at his nose, I am adding a new element, so I once again reduce the time he is asked to hold the position.  Any success is rewarded with praise and a treat.  If the pup moves out of position, he is placed in position again and the command is repeated. (He is asked to hold the position only for a few seconds if he has needed my assistance.)

After several repetitions as described above, I start to eliminate the treat held at the pup’s nose.  Once the pup stands, I allow him to eat that tiny morsel held at his nose.  This is done so the treat does not become a distraction, a reason for the pup to move when the hand holding the treat moves away from him.  However, with my own pup, enough repetition had established the desired behavior that I could just place my right hand in front of his face and have him stand. I did not need to use that treat every time.  The time the pup was asked to hold the stand was increased gradually (again, until he could do so for 30 seconds). 

  At this point, I incorporate a “stay” hand signal.  As I issue the verbal “Stay” command,  my left hand is placed palm forward, facing (but not touching) the pup’s face.  This Stay hand signal is something that I will continue to use in my obedience training.  The AKC rule book states that both a verbal and stay hand signal are allowed.  I provide my dog with every aid allowed by the rules.  In the breed ring, the collar held firmly above the pup’s head provides the additional cue for the dog.  And, therefore, the Stay Hand Signal is not used for the breed ring.  However, I do use the verbal “Stay” command to remind the pup that he is not to move out of position.

I work on the pup holding the hard stack position in a ring situation before I teach the stand for exam in Obedience.  I will stack the pup, holding his collar to present the picture I want the judge to see.  At first, I will use my one hand to hold the collar as I use my other hand to “examine” the dog.  I work until the pup accepts this from me and remains in position.  Then, I have someone approach the pup.  When the pup learns to remain in position during such an approach from a second person, the next step is to have that person extend a hand towards the pup.  The progression continues as the examiner touches only the head, then looking at the mouth and bite, then examining the front and shoulders, etc.  Again, the process of teaching the pup to maintain the position for the exam is a gradual one.  (In other words, the process is broken down and praise/reward is given for each increment.)  

Perhaps I should add here that examination of the mouth, etc. is something I work on separately.  I teach my pups a submissive down early on.  As the pup is lying on a side and learns to relax in this position, I examine his ears, his paws, his mouth, etc.  So, the concept of having a judge look at his bite and mouth is not a new one.  Rather, my pup is already conditioned to accepting examination by me.

Once the pup learns to remain standing for examination in the breed ring, I find that the Stand for Exam in obedience falls easily into place.  The only concept that needs to be added is for me to first start by standing at the pup’s side, then pivoting in front of him during the judge’s exam, and then finally working to increase the distance until I am standing six feet in front of the dog.  

What I think is most important here is that a solid foundation be established.  The skill (Stand/Stand for Exam) is established gradually with success at each step before difficulty is added to the equation.  I don’t know if the method itself has encouraged confidence in my pup, or if it has just provided me with a means of feeling more confident in stacking my dog for the breed ring.  At any rate, my current pup readily accepts being positioned for a stack needed for the breed ring. 

Once last tidbit I have learned about stacking for the breed ring comes from George Huffman, a retired all-breed handler, who now comes to my area twice each month to give conformation classes.  George has taught me that if you use the lead to gently pull the pup slightly off balance in the direction of your body, the pup will plant his right front foot firmly beneath his shoulder in the proper position.  Then, all I need to do is place the left foot in proper position.  George has also taught me to look at how my pup places his rear feet.  If they are in position, I do not attempt to reposition them.  This has helped me learn to stack my pup properly on the count of four.  Hopefully learning to stack my dog quickly and efficiently will help this “newbie” when in the breed ring!

Until next time!

Pat Quinn

Everlore

Everlore@insightbb.com