The Stand for Exam 

Whether you are just planning to show in Novice or you aspire to go to the Utility level, it is best to teach the kick back stand. When the stand is taught in this manner, the dog learns to move its back legs back and not move forward. This is very important in Utility as forward movement can cost points. 

I like to play the puppy push up game with my puppies, which is the very beginning introduction to the stand. As the pup begins to mature, I introduce several doodling moves. I find that if my young dog understands doodling, moving with a cookie forward, backwards, sidestepping and circling, the kick back stand is not that hard to teach as the dog already has an idea of where its rear is. 

There are several methods to teaching the actual stand. It is best worked on with an instructor who understands this skill. After the doodling phase, I like to ask my young dog to back up at my side and then stop the backwards motion with the cookie stopping. If the pup tries to sit down, I can back it up, circle it, or slide my foot under its belly. I also like to introduce some resistance work at this time. As I give the stand command/signal I also give a slight forward pull on the leash. 

When introduced and done correctly, the dog will learn to lean away from the pressure, thus learning to move backwards instead of forward. It is important to teach proper heel position at the same time you are teaching the kick back stand. The dog needs to learn to do the stand straight back and not angle out. If the dog has a real problem with this, you can start them up against a wall or ring gating. Then after they get the idea, slowing move away from the barrier. 

Once my dog has a basic understanding, I will ask him to hold the position for a short time (seconds to start). I will stay right next to him in heel position at this stage. Too often trainers are eager to move out and add distance too quickly. If the young dog is not comfortable with this distance or the time is too long, it will move and the owner starts to correct, causing undue stress at this point in training. Next, I start to increase time before I increase distance. 

Once the young dog can stand at my side in heel position for a reasonable amount of time, I'll step out and turn in front of him (toe to front paw). Once he is comfortable with this position, I'll start moving back away from the young dog. The other important component to this is having the young dog on a leash. Again, too often, trainers want to take the leash off too quickly. If the dog moves, what tool do you have to correct the movement if they move? If you always physically put them back into position, who is doing all of the work-you guessed it!! 

Once the dog is comfortable with the handler being a few feet away and you're able to do this for a reasonable amount of time, I begin the exam portion of the exercise. Once the dog is in the stand position and the handler is a few feet away, this is the time I step into the dog (still on leash), do the exam myself and step back out. Praise is given for each step and cookie rewards as needed! 

Next, I work on being able to go around my dog while they are standing. This is not always an easy task as they like to turn and watch-after all, you've taught them focused attention! However any foot movement will cost you points in the ring. If the dog moves, gently place them back with the leash, reassure them and try to move around again. If necessary, use the leash to help them stay in place. With some dogs, the handler might have to do this is small increments and still with other dogs, it might have to be done in a sit position first-listen to what your dog is telling you and take the time to build confidence and security in to this exercise.

 It is worth your patience and time. Once the dog will accept your exam, your going around him back to heel position, and leaving again to move out in front (turning and facing them), it is time to add someone else to do the exam. In many cases, you will need to back up on some of the step until the dog is comfortable with a stranger coming up to them. Most goldens don't have an issue with the stranger, just with staying still! Work this in small increments and help the dog during each step to build understanding and confidence. 

Until next time-enjoy your training and most of all enjoy your furry partner! If you have any suggestions for a future column, please contact me at indy@centurytel.net