Each obedience class requires one or more stationary positions.  In Novice there is the stand for exam, sit for the recall and the stays.  In Open, there is the sit for the retrieves and recall as well as the out of site stays. And last but not least is Utility with the moving stand, the signal stand, the go out sits, the glove turn/sit and possibly the turn/sit on articles. Each one of these stationary positions can cause problems and possible an NQ in the ring.

It is very important to pay close attention to the training of the stationary positions. This months article will focus on the stand position. The stand position takes a long time to really get solid for the dog, so don’t rush this skill. Dogs need to have confidence with this position, especially when there is an exam involved.

If a novice title is your goal, then it doesn’t really matter if you have the dog do a kick back stand or if it moves slightly forward to get into position. I like to teach the kick back stand from the very start with a young pup. I use the puppy push up game for this by luring the puppy into a stand, down, sit, back stand, down etc. I will gently use my hand to help guide the puppy into position if needed. 

Once the pup begins to understand the game, you can stop luring as much and make the pup more responsible for the movements and following your hand motions. I also start to teach the standing back up to the pup/dog, which I will progress to teaching the actual stand.

Another way to teach the stand (if you don’t plan to go on pass Novice) is to lure the dog from a sit into a stand by connecting the dog to the treat and then slowing moving it a step or so forward. The pup/dog will take a step, thus moving into a stand position to get the treat. If needed a little support can be given under the dog’s stomachin front of the back legs. One thing to be cautious of with this method is to not permit the dog to move forward any more than necessary to get into the stand position form the sit.

When teaching the stand to a pup/dog that you have hopes to go onto Utility with, I strongly suggest the kick back stand method. In theory it helps to teach the dog not to move forward when doing this skill. I say in theory because I’ve personally had some issues with forward movement on the stand in Utility with Echo and he was taught the kick back stand. However, when this does happen, the trained back up stand gives you some tools to use to help correct the issues, or at least lessen the fault. In other words I have some basic foundation work that I can fall back on to retrain if needed.

Once the dog begins to understand the position and can hold for a short duration, I begin to add leash resistance. It goes something like this, I back up stand the dog, I give a verbal and then put my left hand on the chest of the dog while I put very slight resistance on the leash pulling away, in front of the dog with my right hand. The hand on the chest helps to stabilize the dog and prevent any forward motion into the resistance. 

Once the dog understands the resistance it will actually lean away from it (oppositional reflex). This resistance needs to be slight to start with and smooth in motion. Eventually, and I am talking eventually, this takes a while, start adding a little more resistance. 

Once the dog locks up while you are standing close with the slightly increased resistance, and then start moving away from the dog keeping the resistance on the leash as you move.

One final note, on all stationary positions, teach them and reinforce them in your everyday life, not just in your training session.

Little update on Echo-he’s now a VCD2 dog, earning his NA, NAJ, OA, OAJ this spring and summer as well as his Senior Hunter title! We’ve been busy!