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Further Notes on Training Alone One of the first things to do when training alone, is teach your young dog a solid sit. This allows you to walk out into the field and throw the marks yourself. Once you have a solid sit, possibly teaching them using a mat or a small raised platform so the dog knows when it has moved, start with a reasonably close in mark thrown by you. You can send the dog while it remains sitting on line by saying its name and possibly gesturing, or you can walk back in and then send the dog. Gradually extend this until you feel confident that your dog will remain sitting until you send it, and then move into multiple marks. This also will help in developing steadiness in your dog. When you walk in, you basically have a retired gun. An alternative is to put out a chair with a white coat on it, throw, then return, and send your dog. This can be extended in that you can set out multiple chairs or stickmen (a setup with a white coat so it looks like a person standing there) in a variety of positions. You can start first by throwing them as singles and returning to your dog each time to send. As the dog becomes more proficient, you can throw this as a double, and then a triple, and return to your dog before sending. This helps to build up memory time and in addition, provides your dog with marks. You should have a program such as working on various concepts and set up marks as you would if you had actual guns in the field. Do not just go out and throw with no purpose in mind. Also, keep yourself motivated and enthusiastic, as if you aren’t, neither will be your dog. If you can obtain some Bumper Boys, Max 5000, etc., you can use them for throwing marks. Often, you can find these used and obtain them at a reasonable rate. The dogs get very excited about marks from either of these (or some of the other remote throwers) and they can act like a flier. You can work on teaching various terrains by trying to find a variety of areas in which to train. Sometimes, you can only do one or two things in an area, so make it count. Examples would be using a ditch, hillsides, and a variety of cover, roads, hay bales, plowed fields, and rice checks. Seek out as much different water as you can, using anything and everything. I have used tide pools, water puddles, pot holes, the ocean, etc. Again, know what you want to accomplish for each dog. Consider what the dog understands, what he needs to understand, what you want to accomplish, and plan a method of attack! Keep a diary so you know where you are with regard to your training, and periodically re-evaluate just what the dog knows, how well he knows it, and how you wish to proceed If at all possible, see if you can convince a child, your spouse or significant other, to pitch in and throw some marks for you as often as possible. If you have some other training skill such as tracking, obedience, or agility, offer to exchange your expertise with someone else for some time spent throwing marks for your dog. Again, when training alone, try to supplement this as much as possible by joining a group, working with a pro on a day basis, or going to picnic trials. Remember, it is very important to maintain a good attitude in the dog, especially since you don’t have fliers (unless you can shoot these yourself). A high success ratio should be aimed for together with maintaining a balance in your training. Keep everything black and white, and do not ever be afraid to simplify. Sometimes you take two steps backwards for every three steps forward, but training alone is a wonderful opportunity to work on teaching your dog without the pressure of a peer group watching you and critiquing what you are doing. When you do join a training group, remember, it is just that “training” and not a mini-competition which one dog has to win. |
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