CONDITIONING ACTIVITIES  

As discussed last month, conditioning demands commitment and consistency. A dog’s age, nutritional status, and overall fitness must be taken into account.  Activity should be increased gradually and planning a variety of activities helps prevent boredom.  Different activities, both indoor and outdoor, also help stimulate different muscle groups, thus providing your dog with the reserves for both endurance and bursts of energy. In lieu of jogging, a treadmill, and biking, here are some of the activities that I use to help keep my dogs fit and in condition.

Walking/Trotting/Running Free

Frequent walks help keep a dog toned, particularly if you can provide walks on different terrains, such as a beach, a walk in the woods, over hills, etc. If you have a reliable recall and your dog can run free and explore on these outings, he will cover a much greater distance as he trots off to explore and checks back in with you. (If you cannot safely allow your dog to be off lead, a flexi will still provide some freedom of movement, particularly if you keep a good pace during your walk.)  Working your dog often on-lead (gaiting, cavaletti, heeling) can also provide some fitness. 

Providing space for a dog to run free allows your dog to stretch and move muscles naturally. Too often I hear people say that they have a large fenced area and therefore, their dogs should be fit. What many people don't realize, however, is that most often a dog only makes use of a small portion of such a fenced space. A dog who doesn't normally have access to a good sized area will make better use of occasional access to such an area than a dog who is fenced in a large area every day.  I once heard a respected obedience guru say that dogs who were provided with a large area for running free only once or twice a day would make better use of that space than a dog who had constant access to that same large area. Pay attention to your dogs --- this IS true!

Granted, some of this will depend on individual dogs. I am fortunate that my two younger dogs do make use of my yard to play "chase".  However, normally they choose to run on their own only two or three times a day.  Often you must go out with the dogs to stimulate activity by tossing a ball, etc.

Stairs

I mentioned last month that I think one reason my dogs have good muscle development is that my house is full of stairs. Each and every time my dogs go outside, they must go up and down the stairs.  Stairs help strengthen hocks, rear leg, and back quarter muscles. However, even those of you that don't have an abundance of stairs can make use of those you do have.  Merely walking a dog on lead up and down the stairs several times provides some "conditioning". You can also incorporate the concept of "Touch" from Agility to create a game that stimulates your dog's interest in doing stairs.

Take a margarine lid (or paper plate, etc.), put a soft, easy to chew treat on it, and place it at the bottom of the stairs. Allow your dog to get the goodie. (At first you may want to start on lead. However, the dog should catch on to the game pretty quickly and you can then eliminate the leash) Next, guide the dog up several stairs. Place the plate at the bottom of the stairs in a position that encourages the dog to stop with the front feet on the floor and the rear feet remaining on a stair. Replenish the plate with another treat.  I tell my dog "Touch" (you don't need to even tag this activity with a command) and allow the dog to come down the stairs to get that goodie. Remember to position the plate so the dog stops with "two feet on and two feet off".  My "YES" lets my dog know he can eat that goodie and that we will repeat the activity. This  behavior is conditioned very quickly. Once they have gotten the cookie, my guys will eagerly go up 4-6 stairs and wait for me to replenish that plate. Five to ten minute sessions several times a week will pay off and provide some toning, particularly of the rear quarters.

Retrieving

We all know that tossing a toy, ball or bumpers provides good exercise for our dogs. It's also an activity that requires little exertion from the "human". Taking the time to provide such stimulation and exercise for your dog several times a week will help keep him fit and trim. Be creative and keep the activity fun for your dog. Play hide and seek, chase me, etc.  Remember to be cautious in retrieving games so your dog doesn't injure himself. Holding the dog by his collar until an object stops can prevent a dog from crashing into a wall, or jumping in the air and twisting his spine in his eagerness to pounce on that moving object.  Also remember to gradually increase the number of retrieves and thus the time spent retrieving. Watch your dog closely for signs of tiring, particularly in hot weather.

For those of you who do field training, "yard"  or "pile" work is excellent for promoting strength and endurance. Refer to Terry Thornton's articles on Everything Golden for specifics. A dog needs to have a reliable retrieve before starting pile work or the "T".  However, if your dog has the needed skills and has gradually increased the distance of retrieves, retrieving from a pile of bumpers placed at a distance of 100 yards is an excellent means of building both muscle tone and endurance.

Swimming

Swimming is a great way to condition your dog. Flexibility of joints is promoted and cardiovascular function is stimulated.  Short retrieves help build strength as the dog enters and exits the water frequently. Swimming longer distances helps build endurance. Again, be sure to gradually increase the time your dog spends in the water.

Jumping

Obviously jumping builds strength and muscle tone. However, it is important to remember that injury can occur and, therefore, time should be taken to teach your dog to jump safely and efficiently.  The Clothier Natural Jumping Method by Suzanne Clothier (you can also visit the Flying Dog Press for excerpts and other free articles) and Jumping from A to Z by Christine Zink and Julie Daniels are both excellent sources for this.  Also, a dog should not jump more than elbow height until after 14 months of age.

  A good exercise for strengthening hocks is to place a dog in a sit close to a low jump (8 inches or so). Toss a toy or a treat over the "jump", encouraging the dog to push off with his rear to clear the jump.   It is important to set the dog close to the jump so he does indeed push off with his rear.  Setting the dog back too far allows him to stand up before collecting himself to jump over the obstacle.  Fancy equipment is not needed for this activity. You can place a broom over 2 or 3 bricks, or place a length of pvc on top of plastic milk crates, etc.

Ready-Set-Go

This game, developed by Terri Arnold (Steppin' Up to Success) is a great way to promote muscle tone in any dog that is toy oriented. Have your dog drop into a down on his haunches. Show him a toy and ask him "Are you Ready?".  Pretend that you are going to toss the toy. At first your dog may well get up from that Down, but just calmly and matter-of-factly place him in the down again. He will quickly learn the "rules" of the game and maintain that position until you toss the toy for him.  As you ask if he is ready and pretend to toss that toy, you will see your dog flex his muscles. Then, when you toss the toy and use a release word(s) such as "Get it!", your dog will eagerly push off his haunches to retrieve that toy.

Flexibility Exercises

Those of you who do Agility or Jumping in obedience know the importance of doing some warm up exercises so that your dog is less likely to become injured.  However, some of these games are also useful during the snowy winter months, rainy days, etc.  Some activity is better than none.

Play Bow

How often do you see your dog stretch and/or bow on his own when coming out of a kennel or crate? This is a natural behavior for dogs and stretches muscles and ligaments while also strengthening the spine and rear quarters. You can elicit the behavior on a more frequent basis by tagging the behavior with a name and rewarding it. When you see your dog stretch or bow on his own, tell him "Good Bow" and reward with a cookie or tossing a toy.

You can also help condition the behavior. Have the dog stand on one side of you (I typically I stand with my dog on my left ) and place a small treat on the floor about a foot in front of the dog. As the dog dips his head to reach for the treat, place your right hand under him near the flank (this is to keep the dog from assuming a down position) and tell the dog, "Bow" As he reaches for the cookie, the position simulates a bow. Repetition will help condition the behavior, and when done frequently enough, you can begin to drop your hand from the underside (just be ready to place your hand there quickly if it looks as though your dog may lay down)  Over time, you can teach your dog to "Bow" on command.

Stretch

In addition to increasing blood flow and promoting flexibility of certain muscle groups, the stretch is an excellent way to help a young dog understand that he is to come up on you only when invited. I find these types of activities useful in teaching a dog not to randomly jump on people.

Have the dog gently put his two front paws on your chest or shoulders. Gently massage his rib cage, back, etc.  (A circular motion of massage promotes relaxation.) Frequent repetition teaches your dog to relax and maintain the position.  After a time, you will notice that the dog becomes so relaxed that he will "stretch" his body (similar to a play bow) as his feet are on your chest.  If you take the time to teach a gentle ascent onto your chest/shoulders, this becomes a calming activity for your dog while also stimulating stretching of muscles and thus increased blood flow. 

Circles

Teaching your dog to turn circles, both to the right and the left is a great "warm-up" exercise, and also promotes flexibility. At first, encourage a larger circle. Once the dog catches on and becomes comfortable and confident, you can reduce the size of your circle. Place a treat directly in front of your dog's nose. Slowly arc your hand and the treat in the direction you want the dog to turn. The dog will follow the treat, and thus move his body around, if you move the treat slowly and smoothly. If you tag each direction with a name (Ex: turn or twirl for the right, and twist for the left), your dog will eventually learn to turn on command.

Figure 8

This is another fun game that promotes flexibility and can be done in a small space. Basically, the dog learns to weave around your legs in a "Figure 8" pattern.  Start with your dog in front of you. Stand with your legs apart enough for your dog to walk between them. Hold a treat in each hand. Move the treat in your right between your legs, from back to front, holding the treat close to and at the level of your dog's nose. As your dog moves to follow the treat, you will move your hand towards the back of your body, and then around the outside of your right leg. If your dog is food motivated and you are holding the treat at the level of and close to his nose, he will follow it and has now moved from in front of your body, between your legs, and around the outside of your right leg. Once your dog reaches the outside of your right leg, give him the treat in your right hand. Next, encourage the dog with the treat in your left hand by extending your left hand from back to front between your legs. As the dog's nose touches the treat, move your hand towards the back of your body, and then around the outside of your left leg. Using a command such as weave is helpful. Many repetitions and much practice will teach your dog to weave through your legs on command.

Tug

This game is frowned upon by many basic obedience classes. I agree that inexperienced pet owners can fall into the trap of allowing the dog to have control of such a game. However, if you set ground rules with your dog for this game, tugging is a strengthening exercise and promotes flexion of the spine. My dogs all know and respect to "Give" on command, no matter what is in their mouths. They also understand that I am the "conductor" of all games, meaning that I am the one who both starts and ends any game. At times my dogs will lay a tug toy in my lap. Depending on what I am doing at the time, I may tell my dog to lay down (meaning we will not play at this time).

Other times, I may choose to throw the tug toy and merely have my dog fetch it. (In this case, if I do not choose to play tug, I tell my dog to "Give" when he or she returns with the toy. They clearly understand that the game will be one of Fetch, not tug.)  Sometimes, however, I will accept the offer to play tug.  I am the one who ends the game -- and again, the command "Give" is used to end the game on my terms.

Back Up

This is a maneuver that I teach both for obedience and the breed ring. It helps your dog become more aware of his body and develop coordination. It also helps build strength in the hindquarters and promote flexibility.

It is easiest to teach this to a young puppy. All you need to do is place a treat at the level of the pup's nose and walk him backwards by pushing the treat against his nose as you move slightly forward. You can prevent sitting on the part of the puppy by initially rewarding any backward motion. Only when the pup can move back one step do you begin asking for two, then three, etc.

If your dog is a bit older, then start by walking gently into his chest. Immediately reward any backward motion with a treat. I start this by holding the treat at chest level, and then moving my hand down towards the dog's nose as I step gently into his chest. With repetition, your dog will learn the cue of your hand moving toward his nose and will begin to offer the behavior without you touching his chest with your knee. Again, solidify one backward step before asking for two, etc.

 I still get so nervous in the breed ring, that the last thing I want to do is communicate my nerves to my dog. Having a dog that knows to move backwards allows me to bring a game into the breed ring that relieves tension for both me and my dog! Combining this skill with self-stacking allows me to back my dog (and remember, he thinks this is a game. I say "Back, Back, Back" rapidly, then "Yes!" cues him to self-stack) and then have him self-stack with an animated expression and wagging tail.

  These are just some of the activities I do with my dogs. I'm sure many of you have even more games and activities that promote muscle tone in your dogs. The key is frequency and consistency. Although I obviously do not work at each activity every day, each dog has some activity on a daily basis. Be creative. Put on your thinking caps!! While biking, jogging, and the treadmill are proven ways to condition our dogs, some simple activates can also promote muscle tone and stamina.

Pat Quinn
Everlore

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