Bringing Up Baby

The Versatile Golden

By Pat Quinn

THE VERSATILE GOLDEN RETRIEVER - PART 22

Cross Training - The Retrieve over the High Jump

Even though a dog trained in agility is accustomed to jumping, the Retrieve Over the High Jump in obedience poses another instance where dogs are likely to be situational. Here in my part of midwest, we seldom see a panel jump on an agility course. Even if you have trained your dog for agility by providing recall, send and go situations over a panel jump, the dog may well be hesitant when you first attempt the high jump in obedience. Part of the issue with the obedience jump is that the handler stands still, eight or more feet back from the jump, during the exercise. This is very different from running along with your dog in agility. Those dogs that have been taught to work ahead of the handler on an agility course will most likely have less confusion with the obedience jump, but the ROH is very different for a dog that is accustomed to running with its handler.

Once again, I test and review jumping technique for the high jump before attempting to add a retrieve to the situation. I will do both a recall over the jump and then run with the dog as I command him to jump. Only when the dog will navigate the panel jump confidently every time commanded to do so will I move on. Since I have already worked with the dumbbell and have a reliable retrieve, the next step is to add the retrieve to the jump.

For initial training I lower the jump height. There is no reason the dog needs to jump at full height since the purpose is to shape the retrieve over a jump. It often is helpful to start out with a toy or bumper. Hold the dog’s collar (it doesn’t much matter at this point if the dog is sitting or standing), ask him cheerfully if he is “Ready”, toss the toy over the jump, and let go of the collar as you tell the dog to “Get it!” (or Take It, Fetch, etc.) before the object hits the ground. Hopefully starting in this fun way will help the dog relax so he can enjoy the game. Move forward towards the jump after your dog clears it. Tap the top of the jump as the dog turns towards you with the toy and tell him “Jump”. (The tap reminds him of what you want him to do.) Immediately move back away from the jump to allow the dog plenty of room to clear the jump without you blocking his path. Do this until the dog is responding promptly and quickly. Once you see some confidence and understanding from your dog, you can repeat the same process with the dumbbell. Only when the dog is showing no hesitation should you ask him to sit on his own at your left side to work a more formal retrieve.

Remember that the dumbbell must be thrown at least 8 feet beyond the jump. The handler must also stand at least 8 feet from the jump. Even though a line should be visible for you in the obedience ring, it is important to measure the distance so that you can stand in the same place each time you send your dog to retrieve over the jump. It is also helpful to have someone closely observe your dog taking the jump to help you determine the best distance to stand your dog from the jump. Many goldens, particularly males, do best jumping from a distance of about 10 feet from the jump. (But, the best distance should be determined for each dog. Observe how the dog collects himself just prior to jumping, if there is any stutter stepping, etc. Choose a distance that allows your dog to jump with proper technique.)

Exactly where you sit your dog in relation to the jump is also important. Observe your dog returning over the jump several times. Dogs tend to return in approximately the same place over the jump each and every time. It will benefit your dog and make finding front position easier if you position yourself (with the dog sitting at your left side) so the dog has the most direct path possible for the return in front. For example, I sit my dog in the approximate center of the jump (10 ft back from that jump). That means as I face the jump, I am slightly more towards the right side. I do this because of where my dog tends to return over the jump. Where I stand makes it easier for him to find front position.

I work each part of an exercise separately before attempting to put the exercise together. This is done to encourage confidence and speed. (I don’t mean to imply that every dog will exhibit the same speed in retrieving. However, it is important for my “perfect picture” that each dog responds as quickly as is possible for him.) Take a minute to consider what is involved in the retrieve over high exercise.

The dog must sit at your left side in heel position
The dog must stay sitting quietly in that position as the judge commands you toss the dumbbell.
The dog must continue to sit quietly in that position (as the DB lands) until the judge tells you to send your dog and you issue the command to retrieve.

As you command the dog to retrieve, he must promptly get up, move towards the jump briskly and clear the jump as he goes out to the DB.
The dog must go directly to the DB
The dog must pick up the CB promptly and cleanly.
The dog must turn back towards the jump and clear it on the way back to you.
As the dog lands returning over the jump, he must sit in Front position.
The dog must sit at Front and hold the DB without mouthing until the judge orders you to take the DB from him.
The dog must promptly relinquish the DB to you when commanded to do so.
The dog must remain sitting in the front position.
The judge will command “Finish” The dog remains sitting at front until you command him to return to the heel position.

The dog must return promptly to heel position and sit.
The dog is to maintain that position until the judge says “Exercise Finished” and you release him

As you can see, there is really quite a bit involved in this exercise that is worth 30 points out of the total possible 200 points. It makes no sense to me to correct my dog if he sits crooked in front. For one thing, if I tell my dog to “Sit Straight” whenever he sits crooked, then all I teach him is that if he doesn’t sit straight in front, I will tell him to “Fix it”. This “nags” at the dog and teaches him nothing constructive. Rather, I need to teach the dog to front separately from the total exercise. Also, it does not make sense to me to correct my dog for what likely will only be a ½ point deduction (for a crooked front) in a 30 point exercise. Correcting for a front is nagging and can often cause worry, and thus less eagerness for the exercise as a whole. Constant nagging can often cause the dog to slow down on the entire exercise.

Therefore, I work fronts separately for both the Retrieve on Flat and the Retrieve over High. How long this takes will vary from dog to dog. Since my dog Cooper has worked field for quite some time (where he comes directly back to heel position with that bird or bumper), it was/is necessary to deal with him being situational. I needed (and still need more work) to teach him that when he has a DB in his mouth, he is to come to Front position. Once you work to teach short fronts for a recall, then I sit the dog, having him hold that DB in his mouth. I do many repetitions of short fronts with him holding that DB.

Initially any effort is praised and rewarded. As training progresses, I praise and reward only for a straight sit in front. Depending on the dog, I may choose to make a chute with my knees when I first start this front training. (Or I may even do chair fronts where I sit in a chair, and have the dog come to front between my legs.) When I see some understanding of the behavior I want, I may add plastic gutters to form a “chute” to help guide the dog. What is important to understand is that is will take many, many repetitions for the dog to learn the desired behavior. Be patient! And be prepared to provide enough appropriate practice sessions to help teach your dog to sit straight in front of you.

Happy training!

Until next time!

Pat Quinn

Everlore

everlore@insightbb.com

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