BRINGING UP PUPPY    -   PART 3

It’s hard to believe that my pup, Stoney, is now 4 months old.  Time passes so very quickly!  Stoney continues to add much sunshine to our household, but I cannot say I am sorry that he is teething and those razor sharp puppy teeth will soon be a distant memory. 

From the day I bring a new puppy home, I start teaching the pup that TEETH SHOULD NEVER TOUCH SKIN!  The teaching is geared towards the age and understanding of the individual puppy.  Patience and CONSISTENCY are essential for success. 

Often first time puppy owners do not understand why a puppy mouths and nips.  However, in the wild strong jaw muscles and teeth are necessary for survival.  Puppies also explore much of their world and learn about their environment with their mouths.  Initial bite inhibition is learned in the litter from the mother and while playing with littermates.  When one pup bites too hard on another, the victim may yelp or growl, letting the offender know that those sharp teeth have caused pain.  Often times a mother dog will place her mouth around the head of a pup who persists in nipping, indicating the need to be gentle.  When a pup doesn’t have other dogs to help them learn and understand this bite inhibition, then we as owners must take on this task.

How effective you are in teaching your pup bite inhibition depends in part on the relationship you develop with him.  Teaching your puppy that he can trust you and must respect you is an essential foundation. The pup does not understand why he can nip now, but that same behavior is unacceptable in five minutes when he chomps harder and causes discomfort.  That is why I follow the rule that teeth must never touch the skin.

Most articles you read on the subject of mouthing in puppies suggest that you yelp with an “OW!” or similar noise when the pup bites too hard.  The reasoning is that “OW!” is similar to the correction pups give to each other in the litter.  Granted, the pup will be startled by the noise you make and may well release your hand, foot or arm.  However, in my mind, it takes many repetitions for the pup to figure out that you make the noise when he bites too hard.  In the meantime, you become the object for testing and end up being his pin cushion.  I much prefer to teach my pups that their teeth should never touch my skin.  This means that each and every time my pup does place his teeth on my skin, he is given a verbal “warning”.  It does not matter if his teeth touch me with only slight force.  Every time those teeth touch my skin, I give him a warning.  (If the warning is not heeded, a correction is given.  Such corrections will be discussed shortly)

I do believe that dogs develop a basic vocabulary, and therefore I say “No Bite” placing a name to the command/warning.  The single word “NO” is avoided, because like children, I think puppies can just learn to tune you out if you use the reprimand “NO” time and time again.  (The pup must figure out what he has done to displease you.)  So, my simple mind finds it easiest to just tell the puppy exactly what I want.  Using a command such as “No Bite” also helps me stay calm, yet firmly explain what I want.  Yelling at the puppy does not teach him anything, except possibly to fear you. 

Becoming physical is not the answer to stop mouthing/nipping/biting.  Slapping at the pup, forcibly holding his mouth closed, pushing down on his tongue, etc. may cause your pup to feel resentful or fearful.  In some, such corrections may also be seen as a type of rough play and may actually accelerate the mouthing. 

When the pup first comes home and is very young, I will say “No Bite” when his teeth touch my skin and then distract the pup with a toy.  As the pup matures a bit and decides my hand or arm is more inviting than that toy, then I will gently grasp one side of the scruff of his neck (you can grasp the collar if you keep one on your pup), LOOK THE PUP IN THE EYE, and tell him “No Bite” in a firm voice.  If necessary for a more determined pup, I may also give him a little shake as I grasp the neck or collar. (Looking the pup in the eye helps establish you as the alpha and also tells the pup that you mean what you say.)  If you are consistent and work on this every single time those teeth touch your skin, I find that my pups learn early on to back those teeth off when I issue the command.  Usually by 3 months of age, my pups will cease any attempt at biting with just the verbal command.

That being said, I think there are two important points we should all remember.  First, during the mouthing stages it is important that you provide appropriate items for the pup to chew.  The pressure of chewing helps relieve discomfort in those gums.  A kong toy filled with peanut butter or other goodies, a bully stick or rawhide, frozen carrots, etc. are some examples of things you can use to provide chewing activity.   I do not leave chew items down on the floor for the pup to have all the time.  Rather, I will provide them at intervals during the day.  This keeps the pup interested in the chew treats and he is more willing to spend time occupying himself with them.

The second thing that most articles don’t address and that I have found to be a pattern in my pups is that as the pup tires or becomes over-stimulated, the nipping behaviors increase.  I think it important to recognize those times that the nipping escalates.  In my mind, the pup is attempting to tell you that he is tired and needs a quiet time to rest.  These are the times that I will put my pup into his crate or other confined area for a nap.  Sometimes the pup may only sleep for 20 minutes, but after some rest, I think you will find that the nipping is once again much less frequent.

This young age is also when I start teaching my pup to be gentle in taking a treat from my hand, and to allow me to remove things from his mouth.  Teaching the pup to accept you examining his teeth and/or removing objects from his mouth is important. Looking closely at the mouth is helpful to determine the progress of teething, the health of the teeth and gums in an older dog, etc. Also, there may be a time when safety becomes a factor.  A friend of mine discovered one day that her pup had removed a sharp-edged metal can top from the garbage and had it buried in his mouth.  Had this pup resisted removal, injury could have resulted.  Since the pup accepted his owner’s fingers in his mouth and understood the concept of her removing things from his mouth, the offending object was removed without incident.

For lack of a better title, we call this “Giving and Taking Away of Treats” at the kennel club where I teach obedience classes.  It is best to use something like a milk bone to teach the pup to take a treat gently from your fingers.  You can firmly hold part of the milk bone in your hand as you extend just a portion of the cookie towards your pup.  (If this is a pet puppy, I recommend that you teach the pup to sit for the treat.  But, for those in conformation, you can teach the same thing as the pups stands.)  Slowly and evenly lower the treat towards the pups mouth.  If he jumps up or grabs at the treat, raise your hand (and the treat) slightly, saying saying “Gentle” or “Easy”.  Lower the treat once again towards the puppy’s mouth.  If he grabs again, raise your hand and repeat the command. Repeat this process until the puppy recognizes that he must not jump and that he must use caution with the force of his teeth.  (Again, the concept here is that teeth must not touch the skin)

Once the pup will take the treat gently, you can teach him to release it on command.  As the puppy reaches and begins to take the treat in his mouth, firmly tell him “Out” or “Give”.  If he jumps up, grumbles, or refuses to release the treat, be firm!  (However, if you start this at an early age, the pup usually cooperates nicely.)  Once the pup releases the treat nicely, praise him and reward with the goodie.  (But, be sure his teeth do NOT touch your skin as you give that reward!)  Be sure you do not make this a “Teasing” game.  The purpose is to teach the pup to take the treat gently and to release the treat on command.  It is important to praise and reward the desired behavior so the pup learns what you want.

Remember, what is contained in this article is just my personal opinions.  I have found these methods successful for me.  Writing these articles on Bringing Puppy Home has been great fun.  The purpose is not to provide a written obedience class, but to give some helpful information for initial training on puppy manners.  If any of you want me to address any other basics for puppies, I would be happy to do so.  Otherwise, have fun with your puppies, and I will return one day when Editor, Julie Caruthers, comes up with a new idea that she would like me to write about.

Pat Quinn
Everlore

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