VERSATILE GOLDEN RETRIEVER  – Part 7    SOCIALIZATION

Often we get so caught up in thinking about how to prepare our dogs for various events that we forget to address one of the most important elements of a well adjusted dog, whether we are talking about a performance dog, a conformation dog, or a family pet.   SOCIALIZATION is an essential aspect of behavioral development.  Proper socialization helps promote the development of a calm and confident dog.  A dog that is properly socialized is less likely to have environmental problems, less likely to jump, bark, nip, or spook when presented with new situations or sounds.  Socialization does not end with puppy hood.  Although we can establish a good foundation for proper behavior during a puppy’s first months, we need to reinforce social skills and response to commands during a dog’s entire life.  In the “real world” we have a responsibility to help our dogs cope and respond in a healthy and acceptable manner.  This consistency on our part can help promote a dog that is resilient in various situations.

During a pup’s first weeks with me, I take them along when I go most places.  If I have an agility lesson or teach obedience class, the pup rides along in the van, thus learning how to travel.  The pup hears my voice as I work with another dog, he has the opportunity to meet other people and dogs, hear the sound of a teeter or a dumbbell landing, etc.   This is also the time that I will walk the pup off lead in a safe environment, keeping him with me by using my voice.  He is also given the opportunity to explore his environment by climbing over a log, walking on different terrain, and just generally sniffing and exploring.  During these excursions, I capitalize on encouraging the pup’s desire to stay with me and respond to my voice. 

It is essential that you closely monitor all activities to provide safety for your pup during these excursions.  Introduction to new people and situations should be gradual.  By providing pleasant experiences during the early months, you provide a long lasting influence on your pup’s emotional development.  Many researchers agree that temperament has both genetic and environmental influences.  Take advantage of these environmental influences by providing a wide range of activities for your pup.  A well socialized pup tends to be friendlier and less fearful when he reaches the fear imprint stage of adolescence. Providing a wide variety of situations and people during the early months can help prevent a fearful reaction later on.

Stoney went many places and was exposed to many different situations from day one, so I was a bit surprised when he showed hesitation at the noise and commotion of a grooming area when we arrived at a show site when he was seven months old.  Stoney was walking along happily on his leash, smiling at everyone we encountered.  When we hit the doorway to that grooming area though, he stopped dead in his tracks and displayed some obvious hesitation and fear.  This is an example of a situation where you don’t want to force your dog into a situation when he is shy.  Rather, I let Stoney stand there for several seconds absorbing the sounds that he heard.  I let him process the noise and commotion on his own terms without forcing him to move forward immediately.  As he realized the noise wasn’t harming him, I talked softly to him and just slowly moved forward.  Don’t baby your pup at such times.  Be matter-of-fact.  Within just a minute or so, Stoney willingly moved forward.  My job was to keep Stoney’s lead short and pay close attention to our surroundings and other dogs as we made our way to our grooming space.  Stoney learned that even if another dog barked at him, I was the constant factor that would keep him safe.  The next time we entered that grooming area, Stoney displayed his usual confidence and showed no hesitation. 

Remember, dogs don’t generalize.  A pup may be happy to meet someone in your home, but not in a strange environment.  And the reaction can vary as a pup progresses through the various stages of development.  I had a friend who bred a boy she kept.  This dog observed a wind vane every single day of his life, hearing it turn and creak with the wind.  Suddenly, when he was about 11 months old, the dog went outside one day and stopped dead in his tracks.  That wind vane had become a scary monster that he had never seen before.  I have had the same reaction from each of my dogs here at home.  They have seen the culvert at the end of my driveway from the day they came to live here.  Most even enjoyed exploring that “black hole” when young.  However, as they matured, each decided during early adolescence that the culvert was a scary place that must be hiding a monster that would jump out to get them.   Again, let your pup advance and retreat, exploring this new and frightening place.  Be matter of fact and do not baby talk or cajole.  Slowly and calmly walk up to the scary place and let the pup see that no harm comes to you.  Encourage him to explore with you, but don’t force him to the fearful place.  Let him process and absorb it on his own terms.  If he doesn’t explore it this time, hopefully he will go up to it during your next walk or the one after that.  If you force a pup into a frightening situation, the pup may develop a fear that will stay with him throughout his life.  However, if when a pup develops a fear you gradually expose him to that situation while reducing the intensity, hopefully he will gather the confidence to overcome the fear. 

Let’s briefly look at the various stages every pup will go through as he matures:

Socialization occurs at 7-12 weeks.  This is the developmental stage where it is important to positively introduce the pup to people, noises, etc that he will encounter during his life.  This is the phase when a pup will form deep bonds with humans.   He learns quickly at this age and will retain what is learned.

The first Fear Imprint stage appears at 8-11 weeks.  Any trauma experienced during this time can have a lasting effect.  It is essential that you provide for the safety and well-being of your pup.

  The Seniority Phase occurs at 12-16 weeks.  This stage determines who will be the pack leader….your or your pup!  It is during this time that many bad habits develop.

  Flight Instinct appears during the 4^th-8^th month.  This is the period when you pup actively investigates his surroundings and becomes independent.

The second Fear Imprint Stage occurs between 6 and 14 months of age.  In addition to being a fear Imprint stage, the pup may well test leadership again during this phase.  Consistency and firmness are essential to promote proper behavior and those qualities desirable in a good canine citizen.

Remember to vary your routine to provide an even greater variety of experiences for your pup.  Individual attention is also important.  Take the time to bond with your pup and to provide stimulation and consistency in demands of proper behavior.   Play is also an important element in this socialization process.  Play helps build confidence and independence.  Playing with the pup also allows you to create cooperativeness in your pup and teaches him that you, not just other dogs, are important in his world.  Grooming should be a part of this socialization and developmental process too.  Examine your pup, trim his nails, bathe him frequently, and teach him not to fear the grooming table or blow dryer.  Use these opportunities to do a quick health check on your pup and help teach him that these activities are nothing to fear.   Such experiences can make the vet’s job easier and also reduce possible trauma for your pup during a visit. 

  These early weeks and months are also the time that you should insist that the pup obey your commands.  Prior to going out or being fed are great times for the pup to learn that he does not lunge out the doorway, that he should sit and wait patiently as you prepare his food, etc.  Pick up your pup and let him know he does not need to fear being held or examined.  Look the pup in the eye and encourage that special bond between the two of you.  Praise him for good behavior.  Don’t give a command unless you can enforce it.  Practice giving and taking away food, bones and toys.  Don’t allow the pup to stand on or over you, even during play.  In other words, establish a set of rules from day one.  But, at the same time, provide your pup a place of his own where he can have some quiet time and where he can sleep in peace. 

Below I have listed several social handling exercises that establish you as pack leader and help the pup learn proper responses.  I start these during the first weeks that I bring a pup into my home and feel they are an essential part of the socialization process.  These exercises help minimize behavior problems and teach the pup that you are in control and that it is pleasant and safe to be handled.  They also help the pup learn to accept grooming, removal of objects from his mouth and examination by your vet.  The pup learns that this control over him will not lead to physical harm.  He learns to trust you, just as he learns that he must be subordinate to those in his “pack”.

ELEVATION

1. Sit on the floor with the pup facing you.  Be sure to initially choose a quiet place to do this. 
2. Place your hands on either side of his chest, just behind his front legs with your thumbs pointing toward the center of his body.  (Your hands are around the pup’s body and his weight is resting on the palm of your hands.  Do not grasp the front legs as this can hurt the pup.)
3. Next, lift the pup’s front feet off the floor, allowing the rear legs to remain on the floor.
4. Look directly into the pup’s eyes.
5.  If he struggles, give a quick shake (not too hard….the force of the shake should never be enough to scare the pup, but only in response to the intensity of his struggle)  and tell him “No” or  “Settle”  (I personally don’t like to say NO constantly, so I will just make a noise or tell him to “Settle”) 
6. At the instant that the pup relaxes his body, praise him in a soft and pleasant voice.  DO NOT

             end this exercise while the pup is still struggling.  If you do so, the pup has won!!!  

7. Practice this until the pup can maintain the position for up to 30 seconds.  Next, begin to work the

exercise in different locations in the house and eventually do the exercise in an area that has a bit of distraction.

Remember:  It is very important to look the pup directly in the eye.  This establishes you as the

authority figure.  If your pup turns his head to the side, he is showing submission.  

STAND OVER

a.       While both you and the pup are standing and facing in the same direction, straddle the pup with  

       your legs.

b.       Place your hands under the pup, locking your fingers together and allowing the pup’s weight to  

rest on the palms of your hands.

c.       Lift the pup’s front legs off the ground.  If he struggles, give him a little shake and quietly but

firmly tell him “No” or “Settle”.

d.       The instant that the pup relaxes and quiets, praise him, “That it” or “Good puppy”

e.       Practice in a quiet place free of distractions until you can hold the pup for 30-60 seconds.

Remember, do NOT release the pup when he is struggling or chooses to end the exercise.  If you

do so, the pup wins.

f.         Next work in a different location and then gradually add in working where there are distractions.

SUBORDINATE DOWN 

This exercise places the pup in a vulnerable position since he cannot protect himself while laying on his side.  However, it is important that the pup learn to accept this position.  There may be a time that you need to examine a paw for an injury, check for a rash, etc.

a.       Place your pup in the down position

b.       Roll him onto his side, using one hand on the scruff of his neck to help keep him in place.  Slowly

and gently stoke the groin area and talk to the pup in a soft, pleasant voice when he is quiet.  The pup is showing submission if he lifts his back leg to expose the groin area. 

c.       Quietly praise cooperation on the part of the pup.

d.       Do not allow the pup to struggle, nip or mouth your hands while he is in this position.  If he tries

these antics, firmly tell him “No” and shake him by the scruff of the neck as his mother dog would do.  Praise him the instant he relaxes and lays quietly again.

e.       Once the pup is reliably quiet in this position, begin to handle all four paws with moderate 

       pressure. Open his mouth and examine his teeth and gums.  Examine the ears and tail  Praise

      quietly when he tolerates you handling him.

INVERSION

a.       While seated on the floor, cradle the pup, supporting both his head and back.  When very young,

you can cradle them in your arms.  As the pup grows, just lay them across your lap.

b.       If the pup struggles, quietly but firmly tell him “No” or “Settle”  Praise immediately when he relaxes and is quiet following a correction.  (Also quietly praise proper behavior.)

c.       Again, gradually increase time until the pup will hold the position for 30-60 seconds.  Then work in a different area, etc.

I could go on with more examples of how and where to provide socialization, but hopefully what I have written does help review the importance of socializing our puppies….and dogs. 

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