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THINGS YOU NEED TO
KNOW BUT WERE AFRAID TO ASK I recently heard from Denise Werner who asked for “a list of items needed for training in the beginning, for a novice like me. Your article was about whistles, and to be honest, not only do I not know which kind to get, but I have no idea when/how to use one or how to teach a puppy what the whistle is for either.” I can’t remember if it was a Rockefeller or a Vanderbilt who replied when asked about the cost of his new yacht, “If you have to ask, you can’t afford it!” Not that you should have to spend that kind of money, but, regretfully, the field is an area where you can really get carried away. But, have no fear, I shall tell you some of the basic items you need to get started. The best thing of all would be to get a mentor. If you can’t find one at the moment, the following is a list of some equipment which will help you make a beginning. Please read an earlier article I wrote re a Field Glossary so that even if you don’t know anything, you can fake it and appear as though you are exceedingly knowledgeable. I am assuming you have a leash, and a choke, prong, or a buckle collar for training. You will need these for your basic obedience work. You will want to order a whistle, although a couple is better so that you always have a spare. You will need a lanyard from which to hang said whistles. I use a clear Gonia competition whistle as well as a Gonia clear mega whistle. In addition, I have the Green Monster Whistle for use at a very long distance. The latter would not be needed early on. As to how to teach your pup re a whistle, I covered some of this in the two articles on Baby Dogs. Basically, your whistle is used to have your dog come to you, and to sit in the field when you have reached the stage where you will be handling your dog----which, I know, all of you will eventually be doing. If your dog knows the “come” command, you can start with incorporating blowing short whistle blasts (beep, beep, beep) in conjunction with that command. Then gradually phase out the verbal “come” using the whistle instead. In the beginning, always reward your dog for coming to you on the whistle command. You teach the use of the whistle in the same manner as you would teach any obedience command. A blank pistol and shells is something which is a big
asset, especially if you join a training group.
When I started, since I could not shoot a pistol in You will need bumpers.
The 2x12 and the 3x12 in both white and in black are a basic need. I
do not care for the canvas bumpers as I feel the rubber ones can be cleaned so
much more readily. This is just a
personal preference. You will
need to put throw ropes on them (although you can order some already pre-roped
and/or you can order the ropes). At
first, you won’t need red bumpers until your dog is advanced enough to run
blinds. Often, you can get a break
ordering bumpers in volume, so see if you have some friends who wish to go in
with you on an order. Also, perhaps
you can find someone who once ran hunt tests or trials and no longer does and who
would give you some bumpers or sell them to you at a good cost.
If you visit Neuman & Bennetts in The reason I say white and black bumpers is that I feel that in order to learn how to mark, and/or to mark at all, it is essential that the dog see the bumper. White bumpers are usually what are seen best, but with some backgrounds, a black will stand out better. I know some persons feel throwing a red bumper for marking tests is fine, but, suffice to say, I prefer either white or black. Later, when you throw at greater lengths, you might wish to add some streamers (which you can buy, use white marking tape, or cut up some old sheets) to help the dog pick out those long marks. You will want a chair for sitting on when you go into the field to throw, or when you are near the line watching other dogs run. You will need a visor, baseball cap, or straw hat for those sunny days. You will want a white handling jacket. You can buy really nice ones or you can go to someplace like Goodwill or the Salvation Army and get men’s large white shirts for around 50 cents a piece. These make good “gunners” when thrown on chairs or used on stickmen later in your dog’s career. A fanny pack or bag you can hang on your shoulder is handy when it is your turn to throw. I put in my pistol, shells, some water, and a sandwich if I think I am going to be out there for a while. Sometimes I will take out a paperback book. I know some pros don’t like you reading a book, and I don’t when I am throwing and watching the dog come for my throw, but I will if it is a big test, I can’t see much, and/or if someone is taking an inordinate amount of time working with a dog on one mark (not my mark). The book needs to be something not too profound as often you only get a few sentences under your belt before hopping up to throw again. Why do you need a white handling jacket if you are planning to run hunt tests? I feel that it is very important that the dogs see the guns in the field, especially when young dogs are learning about this new game. Also, when teaching handling, they can see you so much better if you are wearing white. I know there are diehard hunt test persons who feel strongly that they must always be in camo. I have entered some of my trial dogs in a Master Hunter test when I was there to run some young dogs in JH or SH. These dogs have never seen camo, and still they did amazingly well. In addition, I have seen some hunt test persons climb all over their poor dogs for missing a mark or not handling well when the dog could neither pick out the gun nor see the handler. It’s your call, but that is what I suggest. Obviously, when competing in hunt tests, you will need to wear camo or dark colored clothing. Dogs can pick out black very well against many backgrounds. Once you really get your feet wet, you will come to find other accoutrements to add to your collection. Eventually, you will probably think about investing in an electric collar. I feel they are a marvelous tool when used correctly, but you should not use one unless someone who is knowledgeable schools you in their use. Another way to learn is to get Mike Lardy’s video on Total Retriever E-Collar Conditioning (www.totalretriever.com). Remember, it is to be used only after the dog has been taught what it is supposed to do and is not making an effort to do it correctly. I was able to train a couple of dogs through junior, senior, and master hunter without the use of a collar (mainly because at that time I didn’t know how to use one and was afraid to try). When the time comes and you feel ready to invest in one, invest in learning its proper use. All of my current dogs are collar conditioned. If you already have an electric collar, review the exact use of it before taking it to the field. The above should get you started. There are many more things which you might wish to accumulate as you become more involved. Camo umbrellas are great for being a retired gun (or just to shade you from the sun), something like a Max 5000 or a Bumper Boy are good to have if you train alone. I have a Tangelo Tosser which I will take with me when I train with a group since my throwing skills can’t compare to any of the men’s. By having this, I can do a good, consistent throw and be a little more welcome. You might want to make or buy a holding blind, bird rack, get some decoys, etc. One thing I keep hoping to add (and pigs might fly) is a few hundred acres with my own ponds, and then my own bird boys for throwing. Next best would be a dog truck. My husband has totally squelched the dog truck idea as he feels I would then be taking this all too seriously. In addition, in our neighborhood, the number of dogs allowed in a household is strictly limited. A dog truck sitting in my driveway might act like a red flag that the Brown household is “over the limit”. As an important addition to the above, I feel you should get as many of the videos, training books, magazines, etc., that you can afford. I have frequently mentioned various titles and suggestions in previous articles. Perhaps you might go together with some friends and order some of these and share. To start, the basics in the videos or DVDs are what you need. Most of the books would cover what you want to know in their Volume One. You could all get together, share some popcorn or other goodies, and watch the videos together, discussing what you see. Many of these will walk you through early training in a well articulated and well-planned progressive manner. They will answer most of the questions you might have. Where do you order whistles, bumpers, etc.:
Dogs Afield has a big collection and can be reached at 1-800-863-3647 or
at www.dogsafield.com.
As to finding some training books, check with your local library or with your Golden Club. In earlier articles, I have given suggestions about some books I found valuable. I know I have donated some training books to the NorCal Golden Retriever’s lending library. If you have a friend or acquaintance who trains field dogs, ask if they have some thoughts regarding books they have found helpful, or if they would be willing to loan you some---if the latter, be sure and return them promptly!!! This is based on my loaning many out and then never seeing them again (how many times does it take before I learn something?). One book I used on a regular basis when I started was Tom Quinn’s “The Working Retrievers”. It is such a beautiful book with copies of many of his paintings in addition to having a lot of valuable information. Many of his training methods have now been superseded with more advanced techniques, but it still contains a lot of good advice. At times you can buy used training books at some of the vendor booths at dog shows. Like any other dog pursuit, once you get through the basics, you will start to understand more and more as to what you need and what you don’t know. By then, you should start to have some resources from training partners, to DVD’s, to books that can help you further your journey towards whatever field title you wish to pursue. Also, remember, some time spent with a good pro often can give you a big jump start. You can watch how the pro works, ask questions, meet other persons who have the same interests you do, and see how dogs are trained at various levels. |
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