|
KEEP YOUR REAR ON
THE GROUND The following is a drill I learned about twenty years ago from a spaniel trainer. It was based on teaching dogs to sit on flush. At that time I was running NAHRA hunt tests as well as AKC hunt tests. A flushing bird was always part of the tests. Sprite, my Golden bitch, was particularly adept at catching the bird on the fly as it was being flushed. I pointed out to the judges what a marvelous attribute this was as you then were able to eat your pheasant without worrying about breaking off a tooth biting down on gunshot pellets. They were impressed by her athletic ability, but much less enamored of my argument that she should pass because of her tremendous leap from a standing position. She had her OTCH, but had not yet accepted the same standards while in the hunting field that she acknowledged were important in the obedience ring. I have used this drill over the years with various dogs. I often do a modified version of it in my side yard using bumpers. Luke (my first trial dog) ran hunt tests before I moved him into trials. I had used this drill with him at various times since he needed to be obedient about sitting on flush during the hunt tests. I had an Amateur win with him and needed 3 points to complete his AFC title. In the last series of an Amateur they had a quad where there were three birds across water. Then, the flyer guns walked out of bushes that were right in front of the dogs and shot a wipeout bird. It drove the dogs and handlers crazy! When the flyer gunners came out while I was on the line with Luke, he thought it was a “set up” and he pushed his rear back down on the ground very hard. They also had an honor on this bird! We won that trial and completed his title! I always remembered the spaniel trainer with great affection due to that. I do this drill by myself, but it is much better if you can get someone to help you. Better yet, if you can get two persons to help, especially ones who can shoot, you are on your way. You and your helper walk parallel to each other with your dog on leash between the two of you. The helper swings a bumper and gets the dog jazzed up----starting with a modified “jazz up” at first. Just as your helper says “hey hey” and starts to throw the bumper, you pull up quickly on your leash and tell your dog to “sit”. Once your dog sits quietly, you release him for the bumper. You continue to walk around throwing bumpers and telling your dog to sit. You will keep repeating this (not necessarily all on the same day) until you notice your dog is starting to sit automatically the moment the helper winds up and is getting ready to throw. Again, when your dog is sitting quietly, you release him for the bumper. When I do this alone, I really, really hype my dogs up to get them bouncing around before I throw. I then want to see them get that rear on the ground immediately as the bumper leaves my hand. When the dog is automatically sitting without your having to say “sit” or pulling up on the leash, you can increase the excitement level (proofing). Once you feel comfortable that your dog understands the concept of rear hitting the deck when a bumper is thrown, you do this off leash. If you use an electric collar, if he doesn’t sit immediately while off leash, say “sit”, nick and repeat “sit”. If you don’t use a collar, keep a long line on him for control as it is important he not get the bumper until he is sent. Once he is sitting consistently with no reminders, you repeat the sequence using a dead pigeon. Always send him for the mark after he sits (based on the assumption he did it immediately and on his own), varying the time of your send so that he doesn’t think that after a count of two, you always send him and he starts to anticipate the send. Next you will go to a clipped wing. You can add a training pistol and make it as exciting as possible for your dog. The final sequence is to have two persons walking on either side of you shooting at a live pigeon. It is very important that these be seasoned gunners who will know not to shoot if your dog makes any movement forward. Have them move a little out in front of you before shooting and be watching your dog closely. If you are at all concerned, put a long line on your dog at this stage. When he automatically sits as the bird goes in the air, he understands it. You can go from this to having a bird be flushed from a box and shot, etc. If you can get one, the best is to use an exciting cock pheasant. Your dog should automatically sit and you should be able to vary the amount of time before he is sent for the bird. Depending on the dog, you might need to renew this training periodically. I have one dog that has been a known creeper (as well as having occasionally broken in a test), and I wind him up with a bumper and get him very excited. This is usually in my side yard, but I could do it in an exercise area before a trial or hunt test. Even if he creeps a few inches in front of me and then is steady, I don’t send him. I either stand there or start moving backward. If he doesn’t hear me sending him, he looks back out of the corner of his eye and says, “Oh, darn! Guess I have to get back near her or I will never get the bumper.” He then backs up on his own without a word from me. I have moved back as far as ten or more feet, and he just keeps backing up until he is in heel position. He stares at the bumper the whole time he does this. Then I send him. He has backed up on his own in trials when he has jumped a foot or two ahead as he knows I won’t send him until he is by my side. If your dog already has a bad habit of breaking in tests, try this drill. Don’t get discouraged if it takes longer to convince him he must keep his rear on the ground than if he had never developed the habit of moving in the first place. |
|
|