Hot Cross Runs!
As long as agility courses require changes in direction there will always be a need for crosses. There are several methods of changing sides and/or directions and the most important feature of all of them is timing. There are front crosses, rear crosses, blind crosses, mixed up crosses and different varieties and styles of all of them.
Because things can change very quickly on course it’s necessary to be able to know how to perform all of the different varieties of crosses. Probably the 2 most frequently used cross methods are front and rear. (See my previous article on front crosses for more detailed information) Both can usually be used interchangeably depending on timing. If you walk a course planning a front cross to change directions and your dog ends up in front of you at that location switching to a rear cross will usually keep the dog moving without interruption and therefore not decreasing speed. On the other hand, if you walk a course and plan a rear cross yet the dog is slower than expected in that location switching to a front cross will keep the pace and not slow the dog down.
One of the biggest issues I see on course with rear crosses is the handler slowing down and sometimes coming to a complete stop to allow the dog to pass in front and enable the handler to cross behind. This not only slows the progression of the dog and costs you valuable course time but it tends to hinder the pace for the next few obstacles and can lead to knocked bars as well. If you find yourself “waiting” to cross behind your dog you probably should have done a front cross instead. Some think that rear crosses are easier to learn because there’s no turning involved and it’s easier to send the dog over in front of you but a correctly negotiated rear cross takes planning and the ability to set it up before it happens. Set up can begin up to 2 obstacles before the location of the rear cross. To properly set up the rear cross you need to run deeper into the pocket of the jump or obstacle before the rear cross which will help you to stay behind the dog and stop that slowing/waiting/stopping to cross behind your dog. Whether you do a front or rear cross, the dogs path should remain generally the same. Your cross should be planned so that your dogs path is the quickest possible and you are enabling, not hindering the path. On many occasions I’ve seen a poorly timed front cross cause the dog to circle around the handler who was in their way causing them to lose valuable course time.
There are some places that I just won’t do a rear cross with my Goldens because it tends to do more harm than good. Rear crosses on contacts don’t seem to work well, especially with slower breeds, as it seems to slow them down even more. I’ve seen Goldens jump off the side of teeters and A-frames because the handler sent them over and then switched sides behind them and no matter how efficient they were on that obstacle with the handler on the side they weren’t comfortable having them cross behind. If this isn’t something you practice with them during training definitely don’t try it during a trial.
Another difficult place for a rear cross is the tunnel and chute. Using a rear cross on either requires the handler to notify the dog of the side switch in a timely fashion to avoid the dog turning in the wrong direction upon exiting the obstacle. I use the rule of thirds. Send your dog through the tunnel or chute, don’t speak to them in the 1st or 2nd third and when they hit the last third use their name and indicate the next obstacle. This will help them to be looking in the right direction as they exit the enclosed obstacle. If you need more than their name try clapping your hands to get them headed in the right direction.
Another type of cross is the blind cross. I don’t use this one very often as I call it the “Knee Knocker” because the blind cross is just that, blind. Unless you have eyes in the back of your head you don’t see your dog as you cross in front and if the dog happens to be coming at a speed different than expected or doesn’t read the fact that you’re about to cross in front, bang, right into the back of your leg and there goes that precious knee. I find that turning toward my dog and doing a front cross allows me to keep an eye on screaming little fido and doesn’t take any more time than doing the blind cross. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t train for the blind cross. It’s one of the tools you should have in your bag of tricks just in case you need it or find yourself doing it without thinking about it.
The great thing about crosses is that you can practice them anywhere; you don’t even need a jump. Practice crossing in front and behind your dog when going for walks or throwing the ball in the park. It helps you both to learn the cues and how to get out of the way of poorly timed crosses without being crashed into.
From the handlers and pups at Intrigue Agility, we wish you and your families a very Happy Holiday with fun runs to all.
Shar & Norm
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