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DIVERSION WORK III When Ed Tucker wrote and asked for suggestions for coping with a dog that leaves his line to check out a visual distraction, I wrote him back and said you are still going to have dogs which use their eyes a lot and will continue to do this. What you do want, though, is to have the dog handle away from this diversion when you cast him. I begin diversion work either off my pattern blinds or off an established line such as the stem of your T-pattern. Your dog should be through his Tee and Double Tee blinds at this time. If you use the pattern blinds, it is very important that the dog knows these well. When I use a single blind, I will often walk out with the dog, let the dog see the pile, move back, run him to the pile to be sure it is established before starting diversion work. Both Mike Lardy and Evan Graham have good examples of working on diversions in their books and in Mike’s tape. In addition, there is a good tape out by Andy Attar dealing with Transition Work. You can order Andy’s tape or DVD from Redfish 1-866-246-5682 or go to www.AutumnRunRetrievers.com. The example I will use here is how I start with a young dog. I do not have decent training grounds at home, so I go out to the University soccer field and set it up in a flat, low cover area to start. I will take the young dog out with me so he can see me establish the pile. I will then move back and send him to the pile. I will then move back to my starting line and send him to the pile again so he knows his destination. Next, I will have a friend (or husband if he is feeling benevolent) place a chair part way up the line and approximately 30 to 50 feet either to the left or the right of the line. Usually, if it is the first time I do this, I will have the gun be at about 50 feet. The first time, I send the dog to the blind with the gun just sitting there. The next time, I will have the gun throw away from the line, will pick up the mark, and then will come back and pick up the blind. This would be consistent with a blind behind the gun. Depending on the dog, some will then run directly to the blind. Others will want to return to the area of the mark they just picked up. As soon as you see the dog starting to the area of the mark, blow your sit whistle and start to handle to the blind. If necessary, move into the field (closer to the dog) and handle from there until the dog does the blind successfully. The famous words “it depends” comes into play all through these drills, and it is necessary to read your dog and make modifications if needed so that you can work your dog through this. If you have considerable trouble getting your dog off the area of the old mark, I would then move up the line to the blind until you and the dog are opposite the gun, and send from there. If necessary, keep moving up until the dog remembers the pile and will go to the blind. Then repeat the sequence. Next, have the gun change sides and do the same thing on the opposite side of the line. I have had my dogs catch onto this very quickly. You then start moving the gun closer and closer to the line until the dog is very comfortable running to the blind behind the gun. At this stage, the sequences of diversions you will want to do consist of having the dog pick up a mark thrown away from the line, and then run the blind. The next is to do the same thing with a mark thrown towards the line, gradually tightening this up. The next would be having the mark thrown across the line to the blind, picking it up and then running the blind. Remember, you aren’t trying to accomplish this all in one training session. Dogs, like people, move at different speeds. Do not compete against your training buddies or against other dogs you have had. Let your dog set the pace it needs to accomplish an understanding of what you are asking. I have had dogs catch on very rapidly and then I will have a gun, (or if you have more friends!) a couple of guns, at varying distances and do first a run to the pile with the guns just sitting there, then a mark away and a blind, a mark towards, and a blind, and a mark under the arc and end up with the blind. You can also do this with a mechanical thrower such as a Bumper Boy using either a stickman or a chair with a white shirt on it. Your goal is to have your dog realize the difference between a mark and a blind and feel comfortable running a blind in conjunction with marks in the field. I do not “no” my dog off a mark once it has picked up the mark, but I say “dead bird” which is his cue that he will be sent for a blind. Some persons say “leave it”, etc., and their dogs understand, but a few persons get into a verbal confrontation with their dog which I think is counter productive. You want your dog to pull his focus from the mark and smoothly pivot in the direction of the blind, with his eyes then focused on the blind. Do this drill in a variety of places so that your dog can do it with terrain involved, variable cover, etc. As your dog gains an understanding of it, be creative. Pick up two marks, and then run the blind, one possibly away from the line, and the other mark over the line to the blind thus having your dog run behind the guns for one mark and under the arc for the other. If you encounter any problems, remember to back up and/or simplify the drill until your dog feels comfortable and appears to understand the concept. End with success. If you find yourself becoming frustrated or angry through this drill, or any training, find something the dog can do successfully, no matter how simple it may be, do it, and quit for the day. When next you come back to the drill after having encountered problems, start at a more basic level, and work your way back up. If I have thoroughly confused some of you, feel free to e-mail me and possibly I can explain it more clearly or give you some references where you will find a more articulate writer. xxxx pile
G x mark line Next month I will describe a poison bird drill used by Bill Totten (pro) which builds from this drill. |
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